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Using CNC to Make Your Art

The pre worked granite upon my arrival in Changsha, China Symposiumby Michael Binkley

For 34 years, I was a sculptor who worked exclusively as a direct subtractive carver, meaning I did not create a model of my composition and then copy it to stone. I’ve been inspired by the shape of a stone, its colours and patterning to create a sculpture. Each of my sculptures has been one-of-a-kind and I’ve developed a reputation with my collectors that only my hands have touched each sculpture and worked it from start to finish.

Most of us in the NWSSA work this way, but it is not how the sculptors credited with stone creations have worked in the past.

Most sculptors in history, created a maquette of a composition in a malleable material, made any adjustments desired, then either copied it in stone themselves or had it done by a craftsperson. Many sculptors in history who have been credited with carving their stone works have never even picked up a chisel. The final stone version of their creations was carved by a craftsperson, while the artist directed like a symphony conductor. These craftspeople have been trained to use mechanical devises to exactly copy from an artist’s maquette to stone. This has been the backbone of the sculpture industry in Italy for hundreds of years. So the craftsperson, or artigiano in Italian, has been essentially a human robot who copies the artist’s idea from one media to another.

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CNC in 2017

In my first year of architectural school, I had the chance to take 2 semesters of sculpture before the architectural curriculum consumed me. That was where I was introduced to Ben Goo, with his abstract marble work, and a bunch of young, talented, and aspiring sculptors whose names I do not remember. What I do remember is that every sculptor had their own process for getting to their final sculpture, and from that experience, I learned there is no right way, only the artist’s process for making their art.

CNC DIAGRAMFast forward 30 years after decades of doing computer work and a decade of public service. I picked up stone carving, and whether it be direct carving, working from a maquette, or foraging in the rivers, mountains, or stone yards for stones that speak to me with their shape, color and hardness, each approach has a process that leads to a successful piece.

In the last decade, as I have learned these processes, there are lessons worth summarizing: some tools are better than others when getting a job done quickly, no amount of technical skill or tooling, will make up for a poor composition, and the last half inch to quarter inch of stone (some say the last 10-20% of the work) is where an artist’s style/signature can be found.

I’m always interested in finding tools that make the process go quickly and can help with composition. I am very interested in finding technology to get the first 70-80% of the carving done more quickly, possibly even opening up new design and composition possibilities.

January of 2015 I visited Patrick Doratti and worked with him and his robot arm to test cutting olivine and peridotite. In the summer of 2016 at Suttle Lake, Peter Andrusko presented his work, some of which used a CNC. For several reasons, I was inspired in the fall of 2016 to explore his approach, and I put together a combination of CAD/CAM software and a CNC to do design, rough out, and carving.

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Building a "Take Apart" Cedar Pedestal

CampB-Pedestals-001

Take apart cedar pedestals are a response to several needs:

  1. Can be outside in the rain and standing in a wet grassy field for a day or two.
  2. Able to take a small amount of abuse and not need to be repainted after every time they are handled.
  3. Takes up minimal storage space - especially if you are an artist with a hatchback or mini van and want to show 4-6 pieces of sculpture, or a non-profit that wants to display 40-60 items.
  4. Easy to assemble and take apart and does not require a lot of skill or tools.

This design has proven itself starting in 2011 and over the course of a one day workshop in October 2013, 8 members build over 17 pedestals. This article tells you about how to build your own. 

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Working Wet

Pat's WorkspaceThe Wet Carving Box
and
How to Carve in Small Places

For over a decade, I’ve worked year round in my basement wet carving stone.  I have constructed a small work place to eliminate the dust, contain the water, and work in the comfort of a controlled environment. This presentation is an introduction to what I have done to arrange my space, photos of work spaces by others, and the wet tools that I use. If available, I use wet tools that are designed for wet use. Skill saws, and die grinders have yet to be made with water feeds. On all of my tools I use controlled application of water to the abrasive blades and wheels to both control dust and prolong the life of the abrasive tool.

Pat Barton August 2013
For a printable PDF version [CLICK HERE]
Update: Water Recirculating System PDF
Silica Dust PDF

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Splitting Granite

Part of this material I used in the 20 hour granite course I taught at Pratt. Most of the info is from Tom Urban's workshop at Camp Brotherhod, some from a workshop by Don Ramey that Hank Nelson organized at my place years ago. If you find anything useful, please add it to the article - Kirk

Granite is removed either by impact or by abrasion, not by carving through the stone. Stone will break and carve more easily in one direction, known as the “grain”.  Slabs are usually sawn so grain runs long way, thus breaking is across the grain

Granite tends to split towards an edge.  The closer you are to an edge with splitting tool, the more the crack tends to run to the outside rather than down through the stone.

Depending upon the situation and piece of stone, three techniques can be used: "Plugs and Feathers", "Saw Cuts and Weges", and " Pitching"

(Anyone have photos of feathers/wedges and pitching tools they are willing to contribue/post)

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Sanding Mandrels - Roll Your Own

mandrel_IMG_0018_s

Sanding mandrels are very useful in grinding, rounding, and sanding the upper inside lips of stone vases. The transition between a flat surface and a core-drilled hole is usually sharp, rough, or even damaged. The mandrel on a die grinder allows you to shape, sand and polish this area.  Presented below is how to make and use your own sanding mandrels.

mandrel_IMG_0019_s

 

 

This is the way that I make ¼ inch sanding mandrels for die grinders: I start off with ¼ " round stock and cut a slot down the center to hold the sanding belt in place. Then I insert the belt end and tightly roll the belt on to the mandrel, stopping when the diameter is the same as that of the crimping ring. I then crimp the ring onto the sanding belt material.

I've broken the article into five parts:  The Mandel, Sanding Material, the Crimpers, Construction, and Usage

 

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SAFETY: How To Wear Soft Foam Earplugs

ROLL, PULL, HOLD - not exactly STOP DROP ROLL

At our Monday morning safety meeting, a few years ago, the subject of the week was Hearing Protection. The company safety officer covered all of the require elements of hearing protection and that along with the documentation sufficed the annual yearly training requirement. ROLL-PULL-HOLDThe difference this time was that a salesman from a custom hearing protection company was there. He asked for a few volunteers to come forward and demonstrate how they install foam ear plugs. He was lucky and got a volunteer, Bret. Bret rolled his ear plugs and stuffed them in his ears as all of us had done in the past. The salesman showed that much of the ear plug was not in the ear and the the protection was poor at best. He then showed us how to properly install ear plugs.

Here's the video of what he showed us:  ROLL, PULL, HOLD  

and a breif description: NIOSH Mining: NIOSH Roll-Pull-Hold technique for earplugs | CDC/NIOSH

It's the small things over time that make a difference.

Diamond Tool (UKAM) Links

Here are some links to information about diamond tools that I found is informatiive and useful.- (Pat Barton-)

Note: Maybe UKAM would become a supporter of this project, that we are working on, and also NWSSA.

Getting the most from your Diamond Tools

Getting the Most from your Diamond Sawing Operation  Has good information on saw use. safety, and how to make your blades last longer.

Getting the Most from your Diamond Drilling Operation

Select the Right Diamond Blade for your Application

Select Right Diamond Drill

Optimizing your Diamond Drilling Operation

Getting the Most from your Diamond Blades / Diamond Sawing Operation

Diamond Drill usage suggestions and recommendations

Selecting the right Diamond Drill for your application

How to properly use Diamond Drills & Diamond Drill Bits (543kb) 

Diamond Blade Guide & Getting the most from your Diamond Blades

Selecting the right Diamond Blade for your application

 

(Although maybe self explanitory, it would be useful to have a one sentance intro to each article as to why or what the article enlightens us about.  Also has anyone done a compare and contrast on this manufacturuer vrs others?  Also, I forwarded this on to Gerda for follow-up.)

Glazed Diamond Segments

Image Courtesy Situp.com

When using a diamond core drills, drilling stone,  I found out that often the rate of drilling would slow, even when applying more pressure. The problem would continue to get worse, especially when drilling dense stone such as basalt.

The sintered diamond tips had become glazed. 

Although oriented to "concrete" this link (which just well could be called "hard stone vrs soft stone sintered diamond blades") provides an article with images that show what's happening so you can tell what the problem is. 

How to "fix" the mismatch between stone hardness and sintered matrix can be found at this link (Image linked from the situp.com.au site)

The take away from 'glazed diamonds' is that "dressing a diamond tool" is something you may need to do, and that you may need a different "dressing stone" for each of your blades/cores/cupwheels. 

(Some manufactures claim their tools do not need dressing, because of propietary techniques, maybe the NWSSA veterans can shed light on this topic)

Grinders

7inch ancient  heavy grinderPart of this material I used in the 20 hour granite course I taught at Pratt. Most of the info is from Tom Urban's workshop at Camp Brotherhod, some from a workshop by Don Ramey that Hank Nelson organized at my place years ago. If you find anything useful, please add it to the article - Kirk

Grinders

4-5 inch dry-cut diamond blades designed to run at about 10K RPM, which is speed of right angle grinders.  For sufficient power, look for high 6 amp range or greater.  Hitachi and DeWalt models hold up well. For variable speed, recommend Metabo or Makita.  Avoid Bosch or Milwaukee.  Larger blades (7-8 inches) run about 5K RPM, which is speed of 7-inch grinders or worm drive circular saws. Worm drive saws can be set up to run wet, keep blades cooler.

Grinder maintenance:  Blow out grinders 2x daily.  Blow outside, inside, and then blow out while running.

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Polishing

Part of this material I used in the 20 hour granite course I taught at Pratt. Most of the info is from Tom Urban's workshop at Camp Brotherhod, some from a workshop by Don Ramey that Hank Nelson organized at my place years ago. If you find anything useful, please add it to the article - Kirk

Preparation:

Polishing a surface will show up every dip and bump, so if you’re seeking a long, flowing curve or a flat area, locate highs and lows with fingers, mark, and remove with coarse diamond cup wheel before beginning polishing steps.  Sequence begins with fine diamond cup wheel (or 36-60 grit silicon carbide).  Move cup wheel rapidly in small circles so that you don’t burn stone.  Next step is 80 grit silicon carbide cup; again moving it rapidly. 

Tilt wheel so center of cup is off the stone: less chatter that way.  Color of the stone will begin to appear and the grain will “close”. Different granites close at different grits, so you might have to go up to 120 grit.  Removing the diamond scratches and closing the grain is a critical step as light reflecting from deep scratches will show up as a milky area on the polished surface.  Similar problem if you accidentally burn the stone with tool.

Equipment:

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Saftey - Working Safe Check List

Organize your actions around safe behavior to protect yourself.

PROBLEM

PREVENTION

LONG-TERM

Free silica  - Wear respirator
Noise  - Hearing protection
Repetitive stress injuries  - Physical: “pacing,” posture, stretching
IMMEDIATE

Eye injury  - Safety goggles or face shield that fit over respirator
Back injury  - Lift properly
Repetitive stress injuries  - Physical: “pacing,” posture, stretching
SPECIFIC TOOLS

  Diamond saw:
Blade breakup  - Check for cracks, don’t jam or overheat
Abrasions, cuts  - Avoid kickback
  Air hammers:
Reynaud’s disease  - Padded gloves, relaxed grip

GENERAL

  • Have eyewash and first aid kits or know where they are if not working in your own studio/shop.
  • When working with others, pay attention to where they are and what they are doing.
  • Don’t work when fatigued

Grinder Blades and Diamonds

Some thoughts on diamond blades

If you only get one.....

which one will do you the most good?

For the sake of clarity, let's just talk about what you could get that would be most useful with any small electric grinder, rated for 4 1/2" or 5" blades, single speed, for a mix of hard and soft stones.   I will try to offer my reasons for choosing one of the many kinds of diamond blades available, based on what different chores it can do, how versatile it is, and how affordable it is.  

diamondBladesAdjI will talk about the different kinds of diamond blades, what each is best at, etc.  First we must acknowledge that none of them were designed for carving.  We are a tiny fringe market, and we use tools that were made for construction and industry.  Most of the work we do with diamond blades is on the manufacturers' DON'T DO THIS list, which just means we have to be cautious and not push the blades too hard.

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Compressors - your air supply

A placeholder for compressor info - looking for someone to help round this out.

Usual commercial advice: 

Size: add up all the CFM requirements of the tools that will be on the compressor at one time and get 20% more "delivered" or "free" volume not "displaced" volume


 

EXAMPLE:

compressorbrightThe photo on the right is of  (what I think is) a homemade set-up - aquired it at an estate sale in 2005.

On top is a two stage Ingersol-Rand compressor specs say: 17.5cfm at 90 PSI (220V 15amp). It's sitting on a 60 gallon horizontal storage tank.

The air intake is modified (thanks to Sabah and Stuart Kendall) commercial truck filters and a couple of pizza pans.  Noisy but it works.

The tank at 110PSI - (use a regulator at tool end)  can run a Trow and Holden B & D air hammer all day, it just cycles every once in awhile.  Also runs a polisher and again it cycles -- just more frequently.  Die grinders it keeps up with, BUT big air grinders (from Boeing Surplus) - it barely keeps up with.

Another use of Grinding Wheels - Hand Shaping

This morning I image of shapers and stone followed up to what I saw Lee Gass doing. He was "sanding" with a piece of a bench grinder wheel. I have a few spares so I smashed one with a sledge hammer and ended up with a whole bunch of useful hand-sanders. Curves, angles. Plus I shaped them further on my angle grinder clamped to my table. They worked better with water.... HAPPY  NEW  YEAR. -- Dirk


On 19-Dec-09, at 2:29 PM, verena schwippert wrote:
..yes Dirk, but only under the sanding of particular type of stone you are working on. What is it ?  Its different for every kind of stone.
...yup it is. -- V

Silicon Carbide Shapers  - Right on, V!  Actually, those small pieces of silicon carbide work well for hardnesses from soft marble to hard granite. With each of those materials, hard rubbing with a piece conforming well to the surface produces

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Die Grinders


Die Grinders At A Glance

Commentary

For who:
  1. Metal workers to smooth out irregularities. Polishing
  2. For sculptors to do the finer work, more precise work than with an angle grinder or bench grinder.
Makes available:
Metabo, Makita, de Walt and others
Speed:
Variable: 2000 – 7000,  7000 – 25000
Constant. 10.000 0r 25.000.
(All approximate numbers)
Power:
in amps.  5 – 13
Weight:
4 – 5.5lbs.
Length:
up to 13 inches
Suppliers:
Many (See NWSSA List)
What “bits” to use:
 Adaptor for 5/8”
Price:

Ease of use:

metabo900plusThe Die Grinder
This is a handheld power tool used to grind material off usually die’s which are part of the manufacturing process of e.g. car fenders, coins or blister packs. The use of grinders by stone sculptors is not well known. They are used to smooth edges and surfaces in industry. In stone sculpting there are many other applications depending on burs, sculpting tools or points, wheels or drill bitts. Confused?  I still am. My suggestions is to get two or three catalogues from suppliers who cater to us such as Trow and Holden, “A Cut Above”, Pothier and Neolithic in Vancouver, Braxton-Bragg in Nashville.  The terminology may become clearer.

Trade names of die grinders are Makita, de Walt, Metabo, Bosch, Dremmel, and Foredom, etc.

Sizes

Vary from an 18 oz. 1.6 amps. Dremel, (5000 to 35000rpm) to a Makita GD 0600. 3.5 lbs., 3.5. amps. or a Metabo 900 plus 3" with a weight of 5.3 lbs. and 7.5 amp., 2500 to 6000 rpm and others up to 15 amps. and/or 27000 rpm. There are numerous models for numerous prices. One needs to make up one's own mind after research what to go after.

Following is information I acquired during the decision making process to get one making ample use of advice received on the listserve of the NWSSA.

What sculpting does one want to do?

The die-grinder will assist in the finer work and smaller spaces such as "cavities" and holes. The collet is only ¼" so no large burrs, discs or points can be used. " Cut Above" sells and adaptor that goes from a ¼" shaft to a 5/8" screw that will take anything that goes on the angle grinder. I think it would be wise to put nothing bigger in this than with a diameter of 2" as balance may be lost especially at higher speeds.(10000 plus).angle die grinder

How large a stone you are working on?

The smaller the stone the finer the work, the bigger the stone the larger the tools can be. I am a under hundred pounds guy, the stone that is. If you are working on a 500 lbs stone then it becomes a different issue. Two factors are involved here. One, the amount of stone that might have to be removed and the "fine-ness of finish you want to get. The die grinder is more for the end-stage work and for the creation of crevasses and holes.

Hardness of the stone.

Soapstone goes very quickly, granite is another mater. I have no experience beyond marble but on the list serve there are comments helpful in that respect.

Consequently opinions vary regarding speed or R.P.M. See list serve comments. I went for 2000 to 8000 RPM. For me that is plenty since I do not go beyond marble or similar hardness. I can well imagine that those who work on granite need a faster machine to get anywhere.

die     grinder

My Choices

The internet has been very useful to me getting questions around this subject but the list serve of the NWSSA was and is very usefull.

To close I bought a metabo 900 plus 3. It is long, relatively heavy but works perfectly. Especially it does not slow down when you put a lot of pressure on the point when grinding. Also at these speeds relatively little dust is created so the athmosphere remains bearable. I do always use a facemask and filters. I have drilled holes with it and again lots of power. I have used silicone-carbide stones with success on the adaptor. In general, I am happy.

A Final Remark.

Water can be used with electric tools but do it carefully and don't tell the inspector. Those who use "airpower" having big compressors can use air tools. The tools are cheaper but the compressors are expensive (7 HP and up) and are grossly inefficient energy wise.

 

The Die Grinder

 

 

 

Trade names of die grinders are Makita, de Walt, Metabo, Bosch, Dremmel, and Foredom, etc.

 

Sizes vary from an 18 oz. 1.6 amps. Dremel, (5000 to 35000rpm) to a Makita GD 0600. 3.5 lbs., 3.5. amps. or a Metabo 900 plus  3” with a weight of 5.3 lbs. and 7.5 amp., 2500 to 6000 rpm and others up to 15 amps. and/or 27000 rpm. There are numerous models for numerous prices. One needs to make up one’s own mind after research what to go after.

 

Following is information I acquired during the decision making process to get one making ample use of advice received on the listserve of the NWSSA.

 

First of all what sculpting does one want to do. The die-grinder will assist in the finer work and smaller spaces such as “cavities” and holes. The collet is only ¼” so no large burrs, discs or points can be used. “ Cut Above” sells and adaptor that goes from a ¼” shaft to a 5/8” screw that will take anything that goes on the angle grinder. I think it would be wise to put nothing bigger in this than

with a diameter of 2” as balance may be lost especially at higher speeds.(10000 plus).

 

 

 

 

The next big question is how large a stone you are working non.

The smaller the stone the finer the work, the bigger the stone the larger the tools can be. I am a under hundred pounds guy, the stone that is. If you are working on a 500 lbs stone then it becomes a different issue. Two factors are involved here. One, the amount of stone that might have to be removed and the “fine-ness of finish you want to get. The die grinder is more for the end-stage work and for the creation of crevasses and holes.

Now we need to talk about the hardness of the stone. Soapstone goes very quickly, granite is another mater. I have no experience beyond marble but on the list serve there are comments helpful in that respect.

Consequently opinions vary regarding speed or R.P.M. See list serve comments. I went for 2000 to 8000 RPM. For me that is  plenty since I do not go beyond marble or similar hardness. I can well imagine that those who work on granite need a faster machine to get anywhere.

The internet has been very useful to me getting questions around this subject but the list serve of the NWSSA was and is very usefull.

To close I bought a metabo 900 plus 3. It is long, relatively heavy but works perfectly. Especially it does not slow down when you put a lot of pressure on the point when grinding. Also at these speeds relatively little dust is created so the athmosphere remains bearable. I do always use a facemask and filters. I have drilled holes with it and again lots of power. I have used  silicone-carbide stones with success on the adaptor. In general, I am happy. A final remark. Water can be used with electric tools but do it carefully and don’t tell the inspector. Those who use “airpower” having big compressors can use air tools. The tools are cheaper but the compressors are expensive (7 HP and up) and are grossly inefficient energy wise.

Breathing Protection

breathing_protection.jpg

Dust produced while working with stone containing silica and other harmful minerals is not just an annoying problem, it is a real concern and threat to your health as well as anyone who hangs around your dust filled studio space.  Maybe you work wet on everything, capture all the sludge run-off and keep it contained, but for those of us that do not, protective breathing should be practiced, constantly.  Learn about what's in the stone you are working, if you are uncertain then wear a filter on your face.

dust cloud

Use an N-100, not an N-95.   The 100 part means 100% of all fine particles, and 95 is 95%.  What's important to me is that for silica dust no amount of particles is acceptable, so therefore if I'm working around silica based stone - granite, it's a necessity to use N-100 and a respirator that seals against my face so all the air I breath is filtered.

Seattle University - Health and Safety Programs - Respiratory Protection Programs This link has a good section on how to check your mask for fit before use, along with all the other information that is required of industry. Fit tests at symposia should be a first day activity and maybe NWSSA should make it part of the regular program?

http://www.osha.gov/Publications/3362silica-exposures.pdf  A new OSHA publication with sections on many of the tools used in stone sculpture. They address the dust first by environmental control and last by the use of personal protective equipment.


Cup Wheel Grinding

Part of this material I used in the 20 hour granite course I taught at Pratt. Most of the info is from Tom Urban's workshop at Camp Brotherhod, some from a workshop by Don Ramey that Hank Nelson organized at my place years ago. If you find anything useful, please add it to the article - Kirk

cupwheel30Grit

Diamond cup wheels:  extra-coarse, coarse, medium and fine.  Usually use coarse for shaping, jump to fine for beginning polishing.  Extra-coarse available from Gran Quartz.  For basins, wheels with curved edges available or use continuous instead of turbo to avoid digging in.  Must use guard on grinder with diamond cup wheels.

wet air grinder.jpg

Silicon Carbide cup wheels:  used for masonry (avoid aluminum oxide ones for metal).  Grits range from 16 on up.  16-24 grit used for shaping, 80-120 grit in polishing process.  Can bevel edge with dressing tool to shape for interior grinding (basins) or undulating surfaces.  Will wear to match radius of surface.  Use at lower speed  (2-3000 RM) because larger mass creates more torque.

Air Hammers

TrowellHolden-air_hammers

Part of this material I used in the 20 hour granite course I taught at Pratt. Most of the info is from Tom Urban's workshop at Camp Brotherhod, some from a workshop by Don Ramey that Hank Nelson organized at my place years ago. If you find anything useful, please add it to the article - Kirk

Pneumatic hammers

Sources: 


Types:

  • D (Dallet) long stroke 3/4 “, 1 inch.  Used for removing lots of stone.  More impact, vibration.
  • B short stroke 1/2, 3/4, 1 inch.  Less vibration, used for detail.
  • Bantam-fine detail, lettering
  • Many carvers use 3/4D, control impact by amount of air.

Air consumption:

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grindopedia

toolcollage3-1
It all started with a post requesting rational power tool information in one place, then a name "grindopedia", and then substantial follow-up from a vibrant community with a good spirit. From "grindopedia" you can find out about:  Blades and Diamonds, Glazed Diamonds, Grinders, Polishing, Air Hammers, Sanding Mandrels, Safety Check List, Breathing Protection...

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